The Italian Edit

Every year I am blessed to revisit the inaugural tradition my best friend and I have of taking a two week vacation somewhere, typically in Europe, where we spare no expense to follow our hearts' desires. This is a cathartic and near-spiritual experience for the both of us – and we laugh that it feels romantic, too. This is our ideal vacation, and nothing can stop us from having it.

This year, we decided to start our journey in Rome. We have done Italy before, mostly Northern Italy, so it was time to venture southward to the origin of the Roman Empire.

In previous trips, we have been to Piedmont, the region in Northern Italy where the prestigious wines of Barolo and Barbaresco are made from Nebbiolo grapes. Given we are borderline obsessed with anything Barolo-adjacent, we started our Italian tradition in this part of the world, which is conveniently not that far from the metropolitan and design-forward city of Milan and the ever-dreamy, mountain-surrounded Lago di Como.

My friend works in international litigation and happens to collaborates with a partner firm based in Milan, and we have gotten to know her colleagues over the years who have been hospitable and warm – sharing food, cigarettes, and all the best shopping locales. So naturally, this time we would revisit the Northern part of the country, but not until after visiting Roma and driving through Tuscany and Umbria. After that, we would hit Modena for a culinary inspired stop through, which in retrospect, could be worth it’s own trip.

So let’s start in Roma. Allora, this is what Italia is all about. A city of devastating and decaying beauty, one of rougher edges and glowing, yellow light. The city of fountains – but also the city of carbonara, alla gricia, cacio pepe and amatriciana. After thorough research, we declared amatriciana as the most underrated and all together the best. We were told in good authority that this is a wise observation.

Given that the city of Rome is quite cinematic, it felt appropriate to stay at famous film director Luca Guadanigno’s new hotel, Palazzo Talia. Formerly a 16th century school, Collegio Nazareno, the villa is imbued with history and dramatic, original frescos and 36-foot high ceilings. Luca’s design studio, studiolucaguadanigno was responsible for bringing together the space, incorporating geometric motifs, bright colors, and plush furniture that is as equally swoon-worthy as it is playful. We dearly enjoyed our time there, and the wonderful staff, who remembered our daily breakfast orders.

Gorgeous light at Galleria Borghese.

Villa Borghese and surrounding gardens.

We kicked off the trip with a visit to Galleria Borghese, where you can find masterpieces from Caravaggio, Raphael, Bernini, Titian, and Carnova. Bellisima. Surrounding the Galleria is the Villa Borghese gardens – an expansive park with manicured terraces, sculptures, and fountains. We met wonderful people on the way, including an incredible artist, who showed us his beautiful drawings and water color paintings. We bought two of his works and were taken by his talent and kindness.

Torrente, the Italian water color painter we befriended walking through the Villa Borghese gardens.

Torrente's art supplies.

Rome for us was all about the food and aperitivo. We spent an evening in Trastevere, where we had the best pizza at Ivo a Trastevere (the waiter fell in love with my friend) and drinks at Bar San Calisto, a local and grungy watering hole located on Piazza di San Calisto. We couldn’t have asked for better people watching. If there’s one Roman fashion trend we hope is exported elsewhere, it’s men in hoop earrings.

Leftovers of aperitivo hour: Aperol spritzes and cigarettes.

We were sad to leave Rome, but Umbria was awaiting us. And more than that, Reschio was awaiting us. For those not in the know, Reschio is a family-owned hotel and thousand year old castle that was renovated over the course of fifteen years and unveiled four years ago. The property embraces the family’s passions of equestrian and outdoor living, arts and crafts (flowers, basket weaving, and more), and locally sourced food, much of which is grown on the property. Not a detail was missed – they provide you with balms and lotions featuring botanicals from their grounds with an accompanying Roman bath spa available for use. Two horseback riding sessions and one pasta making class later, we relaxed under the sun at the lagoon-shaped pool surrounded by oak and chestnut trees and umbrella pines. Out of respect to their policy of privacy and no professional photos, none will be featured here, but trust me, it's a must visit.

Importantly, we made a stop through the Emilian countryside to visit a chef we have both admired over the years, Massimo Bottura, and the intimate bed and breakfast opened by he and his wife, Lara Gilmore, called Casa Maria Luigia, named after Massimo’s mother. Massimo was inspired by his mother’s generous hospitality and delicious Modenese recipes. The bed and breakfast features their warm and eclectic personal art that encapsulates the playful and open attitude they have towards life. Francescana at Maria Luigia, a sister restaurant to Osteria Francescana of Michelin acclaim, was opened on the property to serve guests in a communal, open format, resembling the environment in Massimo’s childhood home. The meal was beyond spectacular, featuring the greatest dishes coming out of Osteria Francescana. The company was equally inspiring. We walked out of there with full tummies and new friends.

Our Emilian experience came to a close, and off to Milan we went, a city we cherish. It’s an, if you know, you know, kind of place. Milan stands in stark contrast to Rome. Milan is Rome’s sophisticated, buttoned-up cousin. Milan is a place of elegance, luxurious fabrics, perfect tailoring, and bold personal style. There are cities where high heels have no place, and Milan is just not that city. Milan’s architectural beauty can feel hidden, with tucked away courtyards and sleek, colorful tile facades. Tradition and modernity make a happy couple in Milan.

Loved the all the light yellows and blue shades in Milan.

More yellows, pinks, and terracotta colors in Milan.

A perfect example of this hidden design is our favorite hotel in Milan, Vico, a charming boutique hotel in the San Vittore neighborhood. Originally a bike factory, the building has since been renovated into a chic 7-suite guesthouse. Each guesthouse is uniquely designed giving the property’s unique layout. The hotel is hidden from plain sight – quietly tucked behind the facade of a Milanese apartment building. The family owns another property in Tuscany, Castello Di Vicarello, which we can’t wait to visit on our next trip.

Agenda item number one in Milan is always shopping. Sure, the Duomo and Last Supper offer great historical stop throughs, but fashion takes precedence. And prioritization on vacation is essential. No shopping spree in Milan is complete without a lunch at Il Salumaio. If Bar San Calisto in Trastevere is a watering hole for hipsters, Il Salumaio in Montenapoleone is a watering hole for the shopping addicted. And for this, we were powerless. Il Salumiao takes people watching to the extreme, with small dogs in crocodile purses and tumbling towers of shopping bags. What a way to get inspired. After surveying the different logos, we obtained our coordinates and set afoot. Or really, across the street to the flagship Bottega store.

This photo makes me want to book a trip back to Como, immediately.

A peaceful Como vignette, featuring this color of salmon I have since become obsessed with.

After doing considerable damage, we called it a weekend and drove up to Como. Como is my special place. For those who grew up around lakes, Como delivers a familiar calming atmosphere – but against a backdrop of alpine scenery, elegant villas, and charming villages. The windy and treacherous roads are not for the faint of heart, but the payout is worth the price. Como is pure romance and unfettered beauty. The boat culture is equally to die for, with vintage steamers, sailboats, Venetian taxis, and the wooden Lucia boat – all of which are available to tote you from town to town.

Sailboat out on the water in Como.

An afternoon gathering in Nesso.

Our boat driver told us Como is divided into three distinct parts: the cosmopolitan (think George Clooney’s not-so-humble abode), the natural, and the touristic. The natural part and Southeastern branch, Lecco, is rugged and mountainous. If you didn’t know you were in Italy, you might think you were in Hawaii. It’s dramatic and breathtaking.

All in all, Italy is a dream. This time, we fell in love with the pastoral Emilia-Romagna and historic Roman capital. We came back, and will come back again for more, from Milan and Como. Umbria was a true delight. Grazie and ciao for now!

-H